Dakgalbi (Spicy Korean Stir-Fried Chicken)

Why thighs and not breasts: Chicken thighs have more fat, so they stay juicy in a long, saucy stir-fry. Chicken breast tends to turn dry and stringy. If you only have breast, cut it into slightly larger pieces, add 1 tbsp of oil to the marinade and shorten the covered cooking time by 2 to 3 minutes. Bone-in thighs also work, but they need about 10 more minutes with the lid on.

Why the pan turns watery: Cabbage and onion are about 90 percent water. If you crowd them into a small pan or stir the whole time, they steam and the sauce thins out. Use a wide pan, start with only 2 tbsp of water, and finish uncovered so the extra liquid evaporates. If the sauce is still thin at the end, turn the heat up to medium-high for a minute and stir constantly.

Preventing a burnt sauce: Gochujang and sugar scorch easily. Keep the heat at medium or lower once the sauce is in the pan, scrape the bottom whenever you lift the lid, and add a splash of water if you smell anything bitter or see black spots. A heavy skillet or a nonstick pan is more forgiving than thin stainless steel.

Spice level: As written, the dish is medium-spicy, and the sweet potato and cabbage soften the heat. For mild, use 1 tbsp of gochugaru and 2 tbsp of gochujang, and add 1 more tbsp of sugar. For hot, add 1 to 2 sliced fresh chilies or 1 more tbsp of gochugaru. Brands of gochujang differ in heat and sweetness, so taste the paste before you use it.

Ingredient swaps: No sweet potato? Use waxy potatoes, cut slightly smaller, and cook them a couple of minutes longer. No Korean rice cakes? Skip them, or add a handful of cooked udon noodles in the last 3 minutes. No perilla leaves? Leave them out, or add a handful of fresh basil at the end for a fresh herbal note, though the flavor is different. No gochugaru? Use 1 tsp of paprika plus a pinch of cayenne, though the flavor will be less rounded and fruity. Mozzarella is a popular topping in Korean restaurants: sprinkle 1 cup (about 100 g) over the finished pan, cover for 1 minute and let it melt.

Dietary notes: Gochujang, soy sauce and rice cakes can contain wheat, and some gochujang brands add fish or shellfish extracts. For a gluten-free version, check the labels for wheat and barley, and use tamari or a soy sauce labeled gluten-free. If you avoid fish or shellfish, check the label too. Rice cakes made only from rice are usually gluten-free, but read the label.

Storage and reheating: Leftovers keep in an airtight container in the fridge for up to 3 days. Reheat in a skillet over medium heat with a splash of water, covered, until the chicken is steaming hot all the way through. The rice cakes harden in the fridge, but they soften again as they reheat. You can freeze the raw chicken in the marinade for up to 1 month: thaw it overnight in the fridge before cooking. Do not reuse or serve any marinade that has touched raw chicken; all of it goes into the pan in this recipe.

How to serve it: Put the pan in the middle of the table and eat it with plain steamed rice, lettuce leaves for wrapping, and cold side dishes to balance the heat, such as Korean Cucumber Salad or Korean Spinach Side Dish. A bowl of Miyeok Guk or a mild soup also helps if you are sensitive to spice. If you like the sweet-spicy combination, try Jeyuk Bokkeum, which uses a similar sauce on pork, or Tteokbokki for a rice cake dish with a saucier finish.

Variations: For a less saucy, grilled version, cook the marinated chicken with only onion and scallions in a hot pan and skip the cabbage. For a vegetarian version, replace the chicken with firm tofu pressed dry and cut into thick slabs, and add mushrooms. It will cook faster, in about 8 minutes total.