Dubu Jorim (Korean Braised Tofu)

Choosing the tofu: Use firm or extra-firm tofu sold in a block, either in a tub of water or vacuum packed. Soft and silken tofu are too delicate and will break apart in the pan, so save those for stews such as Doenjang Jjigae. Korean grocery stores sell tofu labeled for pan-frying (buchim-yong), which is a good choice if you can find it, but regular firm tofu from any supermarket works well.

How to keep the tofu from sticking: Three things matter. The tofu should be dry, the oil should be hot before the slices go in, and you should leave the slices alone until the bottom has browned. A nonstick pan makes this much easier. Tofu that is cold from the fridge and wet from the package is the usual cause of sticking and spattering.

If the tofu crumbles or breaks: Slices that are too thin (under 1/2 inch / 1.2 cm), a pan that is not hot enough, or too much stirring are the usual causes. Use a thin, wide spatula to flip, and flip only once. Broken pieces still taste good, so spoon the sauce over them and serve.

If the sauce is too thin or too salty: If the tofu is cooked but the sauce is still runny, raise the heat to medium and spoon the sauce over the tofu for another minute or two until it clings. If it tastes too salty, add 1 to 2 tbsp of water and a pinch of sugar and simmer for a minute. Soy sauces vary a lot in saltiness, and low-sodium types may need a bit more.

Spice level: With 1 teaspoon of gochugaru the dish is mildly spicy. Use 2 teaspoons for medium heat, or add the fresh chili for more. For a non-spicy version that suits children, leave out the gochugaru and chili. The sauce will be a plain sweet-salty soy glaze and still tastes good. Gochugaru comes in coarse and fine grinds, and the fine grind tastes spicier per spoonful, so start with the smaller amount.

Ingredient swaps: No mirin? Use a little extra sugar and 1 tbsp more water. No gochugaru? Use a pinch of cayenne, or a small spoonful of gochujang (Korean chili paste) stirred into the sauce, and cut back the sugar slightly. Chives can replace the scallions.

Making it a fuller meal: Add 1/2 cup of thinly sliced onion or a few slices of shiitake mushroom to the pan with the sauce in step 7. They soften and sweeten the glaze. Thin slices of zucchini also work.

Dietary notes: This is a good dish for people who avoid meat, but check the labels. Soy sauce usually contains wheat and soybeans, so look for a wheat-free soy sauce if you avoid gluten, and read the full label for wheat and barley. Plain gochugaru is only dried chili, but some seasoned soy sauces and premixed chili seasonings contain fish or seafood ingredients such as anchovy, so look for fish, shellfish and meat on the label if you avoid them. Sesame oil and seeds, soy and tofu are common allergens.

Storage: Let the tofu cool, then put it in an airtight container with its sauce in the fridge within 2 hours of cooking. It keeps for 3 to 4 days. Reheat in a skillet over low heat with a splash of water, or in the microwave, until steaming hot. The texture is chewier after chilling, which many people like. Freezing is not recommended, because the tofu turns spongy and the sauce separates.

How to serve it: Dubu jorim is made for steamed rice. For a simple meal, add Kongnamul Muchim for a cool, crunchy contrast and Doenjang Jjigae or another soup. Gamja Jorim makes a good second braised side, and Gyeran Jjim adds a soft, mild dish that balances the spicy sauce.