Korean Corn Cheese (Baked Sweet Corn with Mozzarella)

Which corn to use: Buy canned whole kernel sweet corn, not creamed corn, which is thick and pasty and will not bake into separate sweet kernels. Regular and no-salt-added cans both work, since the mayonnaise and cheese bring plenty of salt. A 15-ounce (425 g) can gives roughly 1 1/2 cups (about 250 g) of kernels once drained. Frozen corn works too: thaw about 1 1/2 cups (225 g), then drain and blot it the same way, because thawed kernels hold a lot of water. For fresh corn, cut the kernels from 2 to 3 ears, simmer them for 2 to 3 minutes, then drain, cool and blot them before mixing.

Why corn cheese turns watery: Corn holds a surprising amount of liquid, and the can liquid or thawing water adds to it. Extra water pools under the cheese, thins the mayonnaise and keeps the top from browning. Drain the corn well and blot it with paper towels, as in step 2. If the finished dish still has liquid at the bottom, lift the corn out with a slotted spoon, and blot the corn for longer next time.

Why it can look greasy: Mayonnaise is a mix of oil, egg and vinegar. When it gets very hot or cooks for too long, it can split and leave small pools of oil on top. This does not mean the dish has gone bad. Blot the surface with a paper towel. To prevent it, stay with 3 tbsp of mayonnaise, bake at 425°F (220°C) rather than hotter, and keep the broiling to 3 minutes or less. Whole-milk mozzarella also gives off a little oil as it browns, which is normal.

Choosing the cheese: Use low-moisture mozzarella, the firm kind sold in blocks or pre-shredded in bags. Skip the soft fresh mozzarella balls packed in water, because they release water and brown poorly. Shredding a block yourself gives the smoothest melt, since bagged shreds are coated with an anti-caking powder and melt a little less evenly, though they still work. For more flavor, replace 1/4 cup (about 28 g) of the mozzarella with sharp cheddar or Monterey Jack.

Pan size matters: An 8-inch (20 cm) skillet gives a layer about 3/4 inch (2 cm) deep, which is deep enough to stay creamy while the cheese browns. In a much wider pan the same amount of corn spreads thin and can dry out before the cheese browns. For a crowd, bake two 8-inch skillets rather than one huge pan.

Sugar and mayonnaise: The sweetness is part of the dish, but canned corn varies. Taste the corn and mayonnaise mixture before you add the cheese. If the corn is already very sweet, 1 1/2 tsp of sugar may be enough, and if you like a sweeter, restaurant-style flavor you can go up to 1 tbsp (12 g). Regular American mayonnaise works well. Japanese mayonnaise such as Kewpie, which is made with egg yolks and tastes richer and a little tangier, is a nice upgrade. For a lighter, tangier bite, replace 1 tbsp of the mayonnaise with plain full-fat Greek yogurt.

Hot dishes and burns: A skillet handle stays hot for a long time after it leaves the oven. Leave a mitt or folded towel over the handle until the pan has cooled, and keep children away from the stove and the table until the dish has rested. Set the pan on a trivet, never straight on a table or a plastic surface. Molten cheese is hotter than it looks, so wait out the rest time.

No oven? Use an 8-inch (20 cm) skillet with a lid. Melt the butter over medium-low heat, add the drained corn, mayonnaise, sugar and pepper, and stir for 3 to 4 minutes, until the corn is warm all the way through. If the mayonnaise starts to look oily, turn the heat down. Sprinkle the mozzarella over the top, cover, and cook on low for 2 to 4 minutes, until the cheese melts. This version does not brown. If you own a kitchen torch, use it to brown the cheese after you take the pan off the heat.

Spice level and variations: As written the dish is not spicy. A light dusting of gochugaru adds color and a little heat, and 1 tbsp of finely chopped fresh jalapeño with the seeds removed, stirred into the corn, adds more. Some cooks add finely diced onion or red bell pepper. If you try it, cook 2 tbsp in the butter for 2 to 3 minutes first, because raw pieces stay crunchy in a short bake. Crumbled cooked bacon is another popular add-in, and a pinch of dried parsley flakes is a common finish in restaurants.

Dietary notes: This dish contains egg, in the mayonnaise, and milk, in the cheese. If you avoid dairy or egg products, or avoid animal rennet in cheese, check the labels on the mayonnaise and the mozzarella. Check the labels of all packaged ingredients if you avoid gluten or other allergens, because shredded cheese can include added anti-caking ingredients.

Make ahead and storage: You can stir together the corn, mayonnaise, sugar and pepper up to 1 day ahead and keep it covered in the fridge. Pour off any liquid that gathers, add the cheese right before baking and bake as directed, allowing a few extra minutes because the corn starts cold, until the middle is hot and bubbling. Refrigerate leftovers within 2 hours of cooking (within 1 hour if the room is above 90°F / 32°C) and keep them in an airtight container for up to 3 days. Reheat in a 350°F (175°C) oven or in a skillet until steaming hot all the way through (165°F / 74°C). The microwave works, but the cheese turns chewy. We do not recommend freezing, because mayonnaise can separate when it thaws.

How to serve it: With Korean barbecue, a hot scoop of corn cheese is a sweet, creamy break between bites of salty, savory meat such as LA Galbi. In a Korean pub it is a popular snack with a cold beer, next to Korean Fried Chicken. Because the dish is rich, add something cold and crisp on the table, such as Korean Cucumber Salad, or a bowl of kimchi.