Korean Cucumber Salad (Oi Muchim)

Tips for getting it right: A watery salad is the most common problem, and it usually means the salting was skipped or rushed. Salt pulls water out of the cucumbers before they meet the dressing; skip it and that water floods the bowl later and dilutes the flavor. Squeeze the slices well, and toss them with the dressing close to serving time, because the salt and sugar in the dressing keep drawing out water. Short on time? Even 10 minutes of salting helps. If the finished salad tastes flat, it usually needs a pinch of salt, not more chili. If it is too salty, stir in a few fresh cucumber slices and a splash of vinegar. And watch out for seasoned rice vinegar (sushi vinegar): it already contains sugar and salt, so if that is what you have, leave out the sugar and taste before adding the fish sauce.

Which cucumbers to buy: Korean cucumbers, sold at Korean and other Asian grocery stores, are slim and crisp with thin skin and small seeds, but several supermarket types work just as well. Persian cucumbers, often sold in bags as mini or snacking cucumbers, are the closest match: thin skin, very few seeds and lots of crunch. English cucumbers (also called hothouse or seedless cucumbers), the long ones often sold wrapped in plastic, also have thin skin and small, soft seeds; in the UK, this is the everyday supermarket cucumber. Kirby or pickling cucumbers are short and bumpy, with firm flesh and a great snap. Regular slicing cucumbers, the thick, dark green ones often coated in wax, suit this dish least. The wax is food-safe, but the skin is tough and can taste bitter, and the large seeds are watery, so peel them, scrape out the seeds and give them the full 15 minutes of salting. Whatever you buy, choose firm cucumbers with no soft spots.

About the salt: The amount assumes fine sea salt or table salt. Kosher salt crystals are bigger, so less salt fits in a spoon; use about 1 1/4 tsp of Morton kosher salt or 2 tsp of Diamond Crystal for the same effect.

Spice level and a no-gochugaru option: With 1 tbsp of a standard gochugaru, the salad is gently spicy, warm rather than fiery, but brands vary, so taste a pinch of yours first. For a milder salad use 1 tsp; for more heat use up to 2 tbsp or add a thinly sliced fresh chili. No gochugaru? Gochujang (Korean chili paste), now sold in many supermarkets, is the easiest swap: stir 1 tbsp into the dressing instead, cut the sugar to 1 tsp and taste before adding the fish sauce, because the paste is already sweet and salty. The dressing will be thicker and more red-brown than bright red. Crushed red pepper flakes (pizza flakes) are much hotter than gochugaru, so use only 1/4 to 1/2 tsp, plus 1 tsp sweet paprika for color. Or leave the chili out: use soy sauce instead of fish sauce and double the sesame seeds for a mild soy-sesame cucumber salad that also suits children.

Vegan and gluten-free: Korean cooks often use Korean anchovy fish sauce (myeolchi aekjeot), but any fish sauce from the supermarket works. For a vegan salad, use soy sauce instead, and sugar rather than honey. For gluten-free, use tamari or a soy sauce labeled gluten-free and check the label on your fish sauce. If you use the gochujang swap, check that label too, because many brands contain wheat.

Make ahead and storage: The salad is crunchiest the day it is made. To get ahead, salt and squeeze the cucumbers and mix the dressing up to 4 hours early, refrigerate them in separate covered containers, then toss together just before serving. Leftovers keep in an airtight container in the fridge for up to 2 days. They turn softer and release more liquid, so pour it off and toss again before serving. Freezing is not recommended, because thawed cucumbers turn mushy.

Variations: Garlic chives (buchu), sold in bunches at Asian grocery stores, are a common partner for cucumber in Korean cooking; use a small handful cut into 1-inch (2.5 cm) pieces instead of the scallions. For color and extra crunch, add 1/2 medium carrot (about 30 g), cut into thin strips or matchsticks, when you toss the cucumbers with the dressing. For a less tangy, nuttier salad, cut the vinegar to 2 tsp and add an extra 1 tsp sesame oil.

What to serve with it: At a Korean meal, this cool, crunchy salad balances richer or spicier dishes. Try it with Beef Bulgogi and rice, or next to a bubbling stew such as Kimchi Jjigae or Sundubu Jjigae. Well drained, it also makes a good topping for Easy Bibimbap at Home. Outside Korean meals, serve it with grilled chicken, fish or burgers.