Pajeon (Korean Scallion Pancake)

Why pancakes turn out soggy or doughy: This is the most common problem, and it usually comes down to too much batter. Pajeon should be mostly scallions with a thin film of batter between them, not a thick pancake with scallions inside; lift the scallions out of the bowl and let the extra batter drip off before they go into the pan. Other causes are a pan that is not hot enough (the batter should sizzle the moment it lands), too little oil (jeon is shallow-fried, not dry-cooked, so the oil is what makes the crust), and covering the pan with a lid, which traps steam. Ice-cold water helps too: cold batter stays thin and develops less gluten, which keeps the pancake crisp instead of bready. Mix the batter just before cooking for the same reason.

If it falls apart or burns: A pancake that tears when you flip it usually was not cooked long enough on the first side, or there were not enough scallions touching each other to hold it together. Wait until the edges are golden and the pan-side is firm, and use the plate trick in step 9 if a big flip makes you nervous. If the outside is dark brown but the center is still raw and pasty, the heat was too high for how thick the pancake was. Turn the heat down to medium, spread the next one thinner and give it an extra minute per side.

About the egg: Pajeon is often made without egg, and the basic version here works fine without it; the egg adds a little richness and color and makes the pancake slightly easier to flip, but also slightly softer. Without the egg, you may need the extra 1 to 2 tbsp of water to get the batter to a heavy-cream consistency.

Korean pancake mix: Korean grocery stores sell buchimgaru, a seasoned flour mix made for jeon. If you use it, swap it 1:1 for the flour and starch and skip the salt, because it is already seasoned, then add water until you reach the same heavy-cream thickness. Brands differ, so read the package directions and the label for allergens.

Which scallions to use: Ordinary supermarket scallions work well. Korean cooks often use jjokpa, a thin, tender variety sold at Korean grocery stores; if you find it, use it whole without splitting the white ends. Thick scallions can be split lengthwise all the way through so they lie flat. Leeks are not a good swap, because they stay tough in the short cooking time.

Spice level: The pancake itself is not spicy. For heat, add the sliced fresh chili before the first flip, using a jalapeno for mild heat or a Thai chili for a lot more. The gochugaru in the dipping sauce adds only a gentle warmth; leave it out for a completely mild sauce that children usually like.

Gluten-free and vegan: The basic pancake is vegan if you leave out the egg. If you use buchimgaru instead, check its ingredient list for dairy, egg, meat or seafood seasoning, because formulas vary by brand. Wheat flour is the standard, so for a gluten-free version use a gluten-free all-purpose flour blend; the texture will be a little different, so add the water gradually until the batter has the right thickness. Use tamari or a soy sauce labeled gluten-free in the dipping sauce, and if you use buchimgaru, check its label, because it is wheat-based.

Storage and reheating: Pajeon is crispiest right out of the pan. Leftovers keep in an airtight container in the fridge for up to 2 days. Reheat them in a dry or lightly oiled skillet over medium heat for 2 to 3 minutes per side, or in an air fryer at about 350 F (175 C) for 3 to 5 minutes, until hot and crisp again. The microwave warms them but leaves them soft. To freeze, cool the pancakes completely, separate them with parchment, wrap well and freeze for up to 1 month; reheat from frozen in a skillet over medium-low heat, covered for the first few minutes, then uncovered to crisp.

Variations: For haemul pajeon (seafood scallion pancake), scatter about 1 cup (150 g) of small shrimp, chopped squid or a mix over the scallions in the pan before spooning on the last bit of batter, and cook each side a minute or two longer so the seafood cooks through. For a garlic chive pancake (buchujeon), use a bunch of garlic chives, sold at Asian grocery stores, instead of the scallions. Thin matchsticks of carrot or zucchini can be mixed in with the scallions for color, but keep the total amount of vegetables about the same so the batter still holds them together.

What to serve with it: Pajeon is great on its own as a snack, or as one dish in a Korean meal next to a bowl of rice, Easy Kimchi and a stew such as Kimchi Jjigae or Doenjang Jjigae. It also fits on a party spread with Japchae and Korean Fried Chicken. For the classic rainy-day pairing, serve it with chilled makgeolli.